August 10, 2016


I'd like to save money and color my hair at home is it safe? 

I am not a fan of chemical use at home so my opinion may be biased, and it is. I have been called, texted and greeted in person by women who have……how can I say this, JACKED UP their hair with at home hair coloring kits. 

But, I do not blame them 100% because of the simplicity sold to them in the advertisements of these kits.  

They found it believable that they could be like Beyonce and Sarah Jessica Parker achieving the perfect shade of color through an at home hair coloring kit. Although we all know neither of those fabulous ladies does their own hair let alone colors it. 

I learned the “Laws Of Color” (Yes, you read correct LAW) in 3 moths of my cosmetology school career. That doesn’t seem like a lengthy subject until you include the fact that I was there 13 hours every day Monday thru Friday and for 8 hours on Saturday a total of 68 hours in a week. So, breaking this complex subject of color in one article is even impossible for your talented beauty editor Me!

However, I want to express the seriousness and complexity of color so I’ll try. I’m going to give you a brief over view of what I do as a Master Hairstylist when coloring hair. 

Step One: Consultation and hair type analysis

In the previous issue I wrote on this very subject of finding out your hair type to aid you in shopping for the right products for your hair. In coloring hair this is also a key factor in formulating and even determining if it is safe to color my clients hair. For the consultation I find out what the target color is and does my client have any known allergies. 

Step Two: What level and Base Color

In other words does she want light or dark brown and does she want a reddish brown or chocolate brown?

Step Three: Color selection and Developer equation formulation

Meaning I select the target color from my swatch book again to confirm the target color choice. Based on what level the desired color is VS. the natural color I formulate an equation that will suggest to me which developer I should use 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume. 
Note if the hair has been previously colored, or permed none of this applies!

Step Four: Processing time

Factors like graying hair, or thick textured hair determines processing time. One of my clients has a processing time of 45 minutes while another has a time of 30 minutes. That 15 minutes may not seem like much but it’s the difference between healthy colored hair and over processed colored hair. 

Step Five: Apply color and allow to process

After the proper amount of time has passed I rinse thoroughly and shampoo the hair with neutralizing shampoo and follow with a Ph balancing conditioning treatment. 

WOW, that’s a lot now, which at home hair color educates you to go through this process as a professional to achieve the best and healthiest results? None that I know of, let’s face it something’s are better left for the professional your stylist and this is one of them. I always discourage chemicals to be performed at home because after the damage has been done or the wrong color is chosen it is more than expensive to get fixed. At home hair color leave it at the store, but do go shopping for the best styling products for your hair type.